Marker Modes

Marker could be described by the form of the fabric and whether it is symmetrical and/or directional determine the appropriate type of marker for a style. Markers may be open or closed depending on the form that the fabric is presented for cutting. Rolled fabrics are open and flat when spread. Markers for this type of spread require pattern pieces for each part to be cut. Markers made with full-pattern pieces for each part to be cut. Markers made with full-pattern pieces are called open markers. Tubular knit fabrics are closed on both edges and therefore require pattern pieces that utilize the folds. Markers with half-pattern pieces for laying along the folds of the tube are called closed markers. Garment parts must be symmetrical if half-pattern pieces are used.

Objectives of marker modes:

1. Understanding the impact of fabric nap on marker planning.
2. Examine the role of symmetry and directionality of fabric.

Marker makers must also consider the symmetry (side-to-side) and directionality (end-to-end) differences in fabrics. Symmetric fabrics are the same side-to-side. Asymmetric fabrics such as border prints are different side-to-side. Non-directional fabrics are the same end-to-end. Directional fabrics are different end-to-end. Examples of directional fabrics include knits, n fabrics, and prints with flowers all growing in one direction. The marker mode is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric.

There are three types of marker modes:

1. Nap-either-way (N/E/W)
2. Nap-one-way (N/O/W)
3. Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D)

Nap-either-way (N/E/W):

In this case, the term nap is to indicate the fabric is directional - it is different end-to-end. The nap of a fabric is created by its structure (corduroy or an unbalanced plaid), a finish, or a directional print. With symmetric, no directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line. This marker mode is called nap-either-way (N/E/W). Pieces are placed for best fabric utilization.

Nap-one-way (N/O/W):

With asymmetrical and directional fabrics the orientation of pattern pieces is extremely important to the consistency and quality of the product. These fabrics require that all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction. This is called Nap-one-way.

Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D):

On some directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be possible for all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed ill the opposite direction. This is called nap-up-and-down (N/U/D).